Delhi's date with Italy

New Delhi (India): Italian virtuoso Michelin Star Chef, Adriano Baldassarre, was recently the visiting chef at Perbacco, The Lodhi, Delhi, for a week. As the head of the legendary Tordo Matto in Zagarolo, he won the Michelin star in 2007 as one of the youngest chefs, and in 2016 he opened his own restaurant, Tordomatto in the heart of Rome. In an interview with NewsDrum.in, he talks about his take on Indian food since he has been to India often; the Indian palate’s preference for Italian food; the differences between the various regions of Italy that reflects in its cuisine, and more.

Excerpts:

What is the dominating flavour profile of Italian cuisine?

There is no one dominating flavour. Italian cuisine has a bouquet of flavours that whet one’s appetite. In Italian cuisine, we celebrate ingredients and produce. The idea is to create a happy marriage between tastes that boasts nutrition and is also robust and hearty. The stress is on simplicity, quality and highlighting fresh ingredients. Our tables boast a variety according to what the season has to offer.

Lamb Bolognese Fettuccine

To what do you attribute the attraction of Indians to Italian food?

Indians find the flavour profile similar—in its use of the high ‘umami’ quotient. It is hard to describe in words. It is just the very savouriness that makes it so attractive. Of course, both Indian and Italian cuisines are vastly different in nature, but there is a similarity in their variety. Just like different regions of India boast food that is unique to their area, Italian cuisine is also very region-centric. Like in India the cuisine varies at every 100 km, the food in Italy also differs from region to region.

Is it the simplicity of the Italian kitchen, its warmth and heartiness that really connects with Indian taste buds?

It is not simply the food that connects the two countries. Their relationship to basic hearty home-style cooking and the use of ancestral recipes passed down from generation to generation make the two nations alike in the kitchen. Like the ladle-wielding Indian grandmother, the Italian Mamma has a pivotal role to play in the kitchen. Both the countries boast cuisines rooted in tradition—that is intrinsic to the heart of the Italian or Indian gastronomic tradition. Like most cooks in India, Italians too learn cooking by watching their grandmothers dish out hearty homecooked meals.

Meatball in Spicy Tomato Sauce, Rucola and Crunchy Bread

You have been to India many times. What is your view of the cuisine here?

India has a diverse culinary repertoire. The food experience here is very interesting. Each dish you come across has a history behind it. It’s also fascinating to hear the stories that speak of the food of every region.

What are your favourites of the Indian kitchen and why?

My Indian favourites keep changing. It all depends on what I have tried at the moment. Right now I would rate Rogan Josh, Lamb Biryani and Chole Bhature as my current favourites. Food is such an adventure here. For all you know, the next dish I try might become my favourite!

Potato and Cauliflower Fagottelli, Spring Onion, Walnut and Black Truffle

Is there any similarity between Indian and Italian cuisines?

The culinary basics are the same around the world. But as per the country and region, the style and technique of cooking changes. Ingredients and traditions also play an important part. There is stress on carbs in both Indian and Italian cuisines. The Italians like their pasta and risotto and have it every meal just like the Indians have rice and roti. There are also similarities in the way the cuisines are divided. Just like in India, the food in the northern regions is rich in ghee and, Northern Italy too loves using butter in all its dishes. Then the hot coastal towns of the South both in India and in Italy stress the use of seafood. 

Also, like the abundance of olives found in South Italy, there is a prominent use of olive oil. Same with South India, where coconuts are found in abundance, hence the use of coconut oil is the mainstay. Many food textures are also similar. For example, in Central Italy, there is a dish made of puffed dough which is similar to ‘bhature’ in India!

Do you think the Italian food available in India is the real stuff or is it majorly Indianised?

Personally, I like cuisines to retain their authentic flavours. It does not do if all cuisines begin tasting similar. Of course, there is always scope for adaptation, but one should be careful so as not to dilute the origins of the dish. That would be sacrilege. I remember earlier, the Indian palate took time to adjust to Italian tastes. Since Indians are in love with spices, the simple taste of fresh tomato, olive oil, oregano and basil did not sit well with Indian tastebuds. It took time to evolve. And now I find quite a few restaurants in India doing a very authentic job of Italian cuisine.