'Better late than ever', say Lakhnawi food connoisseurs on UNESCO recognition

Lucknow, Nov 1 (PTI) It's 'der aaye, durust aaye' for Lucknow, according to prominent chefs and food connoisseurs as they hailed the long overdue recognition for 'Lakhnawi cuisine' with the Uttar Pradesh capital officially inducted among the UNESCO creative cities for 'Gastronomy'.

It is also a validation of Lucknow's culinary traditions and rich history that have enchanted locals and visitors alike with the symphony of flavours that showcase a 'mini-India', they said.

"Better late than never. This recognition to Lucknow was expected. I think it is a very long delayed honour, which has come to Lucknow, because this is one city of India which is considered to be the Mecca of Gourmet," Pushpesh Pant, the president of Cuisine Society of India, told PTI.

"Other cities may have equal claims. Some people may say Hyderabad or Delhi. But the fact of the matter is that there is a strong Lucknow connection everywhere, he said.

Pant said that Lucknow is not only an inheritor to Nawabi food, but is a melting pot of several vegetarian rural streams like "Bania, Khatri, Brahmin, as well as Dalit".

"It truly is mini-India, including Prabasi Bengali, Kashmiris and pre-partition Punjabis and Khatris," he said.

Prominent chef Ranveer Brar, who hails from Lucknow, said, "Der aaye, durust aaye. This recognition by UNESCO was long overdue for Lucknow. It validates the city's deep culinary heritage and the love we hold for our food." "More importantly, it brings a sense of responsibility -- for every Lucknowite, including me, to elevate our hospitality and showcase our cuisine to the world with even greater pride and authenticity," he said.

Delving into the history of Lakhnawi cuisine and its influence, Pant said, "Lucknow food had a very deep impact on Delhi food, and it became more sophisticated and princely after being deeply influenced by Avadh. Before this, Mughal food was largely 'lashkari' (nomadic)." "The Mughals never had a cuisine of their own, as they came from Central Asia. All this myth about Mughalai food and its development in Delhi is baseless and absurd," Pant said, and added that the Delhi food became 'khaane laayak (edible)' when Lucknow's influence entered into it.

Historical documents also state that it was Lucknow's food which came to Delhi, though the issue has been a bone of contention among experts.

"In the book Bazm-e-Aakhir by Munshi Faizuddin Dehlvi, he says about the final 'dastarkhaan' of Bahadur Shah Zafar. The menu consisted of typical Lakhnavi foods ranging from 'dumpukht' (food cooked using steam and raw spices) and 'do pyaajaa'," Pant said.

The refined nature in the Delhi food came from Lucknow.

He said that after the death of Emperor Aurangzeb, "no Mughal emperor stayed in Delhi for 40 years. All the weak Mughal emperors (except Bahadur Shah Zafar) took shelter in Avadh when they were harassed by Nadir Shah, Ahmed Shah Abdali, Marathas and Jats. At that time, they acquired the taste of Lakhnavi food. When they came back to Delhi, they took the chefs (baavarchis) with them." Himanshu Bajpai, a storyteller and author, said Lakhnavi food, which was already known across the globe, will further cement its place among the food connoisseurs with this recognition.

"As a Lucknowite, we know about the various culinary delights of Lucknow, their relevance and their importance. The award will definitely give spontaneous happiness to us, but the bigger takeaway is that the Lakhnavi food, which was already known across the globe, will further cement its place among the food connoisseurs.

"People from far and wide will now evince more interest in Lakhnavi food," Bajpai said.

Navneet Sehgal, Chairman of Prasad Bharati, who had been a district magistrate of Lucknow and was a senior bureaucrat, told PTI, "It is great... it is a recognition of the culinary traditions and rich history in serving various dishes for the palate of millions of food lovers." Sehgal also congratulated the then Divisional Commissioner of Lucknow, Roshan Jacob, for "putting in untiring efforts" and also the Tourism department.

"Under the leadership of Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath ji, the law and order situation has improved a lot and many tourists are visiting UP and Lucknow for the culinary experience of Lucknow." PTI NAV RT RT RT