'Kai Po Che' from the Pols: Ahmedabad old city terraces keep Uttarayan spirit alive

Ahmedabad, Jan 13 (PTI) As Ahmedabad gears up to celebrate 'Uttarayan' with kite flying, a familiar tradition quietly gathers momentum in the old city - the annual renting of terraces.

Every year, as winter skies fill with kites, rooftops across the walled city transform into sought-after spaces for the celebration of Uttarayan, also known as Makar Sankranti, which falls on January 14 and marks the sun's northward journey and the transition towards summer.

In the heart of the heritage city, amid the narrow alleys of the 'pols', as the old city neighbourhoods are called, the jubilant cries of "Kai Po Che" will echo through Khadia, Raipur, Sarangpur and Astodia.

Here, rooftops are more than architectural features; they become platforms where memories are made.

Renting terraces during Uttarayan is a long-standing tradition in the old city of Ahmedabad. For a day, these rooftops turn into shared spaces of belonging, where hosts and visitors come together to celebrate the festival in its most authentic form.

To mark the occasion, terraces are carefully painted and adorned with colourful balloons, intricate dori work, patriotic tricolour-themed decor and bright garden umbrellas. The skyline comes alive with colour and movement.

Rooftop owners thoughtfully curate these visual elements, consciously transforming their homes into vibrant cultural spaces that attract visitors and promote tourism, while showcasing the city's living heritage.

"Amdavadis living in apartments worth crores in posh areas willingly pay for the heritage experience -- the warmth, welcome and hospitality -- by renting rooftops in the pols of the old city," Ajay Modi, a travel agent who facilitates terrace rentals during Uttarayan, told PTI.

The cost of renting a terrace for Uttarayan ranges from Rs 10,000 to Rs 80,000 (per day), depending on its size and the number of revellers it can accommodate, he said.

"There's always a craze among Non-Resident Indians (NRIs) to experience Uttarayan in their homeland and reconnect with their roots," Modi added.

He, however, noted that this year the number of NRI revellers has declined considerably, attributing it to the stringent policies in the US.

Despite this, the old city continues to draw visitors from across Gujarat and the country, all eager to experience Uttarayan in its most traditional setting.

At Chetna Soni's terrace in Khadia, for instance, families from Mumbai arrive each year to celebrate the festival. "A family of 15 has been coming to my rooftop for the last three years," Soni said.

"The heritage that lies in the heart of Ahmedabad, within the narrow lanes of these pols, has a charm of its own. It's a lifetime, memorable experience," she added.

Hosts like Soni go the extra mile to ensure comfort and authenticity. "We arrange Gujarati refreshments, mineral water, a traditional lunch, a music system and kites for our guests," she said.

Beyond celebration, Uttarayan in the old city sustains an entire local ecosystem. Street food vendors, small gruh udyog (home industries) and local suppliers see a significant boost as tourists place bulk orders for authentic Gujarati delicacies such as 'bhajiya', 'fafda', 'gathiya', 'chikki' and more.

"A complete ecosystem comes alive during this time," Modi emphasised.

Uttarayan is not just a festival here, it's an economic and cultural lifeline for the old city, according to locals. PTI KVM PD GK