Varanasi has been turned into a spectacle: Hindi writer Kashinath Singh

Varanasi, Dec 25 (PTI) Renowned Hindi author Kashinath Singh looks back at seven decades he has spent in the holy city of Banaras, or Varanasi, and remembers the city that was a peaceful recourse for those seeking divine guidance, or looking to learn the Indian classical arts, or to experience centuries of syncretic culture.

Having lived for years in a city he loves, Singh is filled with pain at its current condition and feels it is losing its character.

"It was a city of 'gullies' and 'mohallas', not of malls and colonies. Earlier, people used to come to see the traditions of Varanasi; now they only come for the aarti, to see Namo Ghat, Assi Ghat. The character of Varanasi is being destroyed," the author told PTI Bhasha in an interview at his residence here.

Singh, recipient of the Sahitya Akademi Award and author of the acclaimed novel "Kashi Ka Assi," talked at length about the city's changing appearance.

"When we came here in 1953, there were only a few cars in this city. There were 'ikke' (horse carriages). Premchand and Jaishankar Prasad used to travel by ikke. But now there are cars and multiplexes. Now there's no difference between Banaras and Delhi or any other big city," he said.

Born on January 1, 1937, in Jiyapur, Chandauli, Singh's love for Banaras is well known through his stories and characters that are deeply engraved in the city's culture and traditions.

Talking about the times of his youth in the city, Singh said it used to be quiet and peaceful and they would sit on the steps of the ghats and look at the Ganga.

"We would talk among ourselves, stroll. There used to be two or four bathers in the evenings. And it used to be absolutely peaceful. Sadhus sitting with long matted hair, meditating. Yogis sitting with their bodies smeared with ash.

"Now, it has become a spectacle. Assi has been turned into a 'chowpaty' (promenade). This isn't our Banaras,” the 88-year-old added.

Singh lived with his family near Assi Ghat before moving to a house at the Banaras Hindu University, where he started his career as a lecturer in 1965 and retired from as the head of the Hindi department.

While sipping tea and rummaging through his memories, he revealed the layers of his warm relationship with the city even as a sense of regret remained heavy in his thoughts.

“Banaras used to have a character. The streets of Dal Mandi and the shops there were famous. There was Thatheri Gali, Bismillah Khan Gali, Kunji Tola… Now the streets are being turned into roads.

“Banaras has a profound influence on culture. There was a gharana of singing, instrumental music, tabla playing, and Kathak. This city has produced figures like Sitara Devi, Kishan Maharaj, Gudai Maharaj, and Anokha Lal. Bismillah Khan lived here," he added.

The author, who received the Sahitya Akademi award in 2011 for his novel "Rehan Par Raghu", also weighed in on the recent postponement of the awards in Delhi and said that the government sees literature as "not only irrelevant, but unnecessary".

"Look, the government has nothing to do with literature. Literature is unnecessary for it. The award was bound to be cancelled. Previously, the academy used to have elections. People were chosen. Elections don't happen anymore," Singh said.

However, he looked hopeful for the future of reading and books at large.

"Books are being published and selling well. The number of readers is also increasing compared to before. A lot of writing is also being done on Facebook and WhatsApp. A lot of anti-government writing is also being done, but the government doesn't take it seriously," he noted. PTI NK MAH BK BK